Azday, Gathering Stories of Food - Eid Al Adha and Couscous

Photo by Bashir Nannis

In the extreme North West of Libya lives the Amazigh community of At Willul. The At Willul have inhabited the area surrounding the city of Zuwara for centuries. Yet, despite their historic roots, much of their history and culture has gone unrecorded. Sadly, this is particularly evidenced by the minimal amount of sources in existence preserving their culinary heritage.  

To ensure the preservation of At Willul dishes, culinary traditions, and mythologies, 15 Amazigh elders were asked to reflect upon these topics. The story you are about to read is one of the traditions they recounted. 

The Amazigh people are distinguished by the multitude of their dishes. Couscous, ‘ⴽⵙⴽⵙⵓ’ is one of the Amazigh staple foods, consisting of small grains made out of wheat. The word Couscous traces its roots to the Tamazight language and it is derived from the phrase meaning ‘small pieces’ or ‘well rounded’. Couscous serves as the base for a variety of dishes, also known as couscous.

Couscous dishes are quite popular. Some, like Couscous prepared with meat, are eaten on a regular basis. While others are reserved for certain occasions and holidays. 

For Eid Al Adha, one of the most important Muslim holidays, the At Willul traditionally prepare two lesser known dishes: Couscous with Azlef and Couscous with Emze - ⵢⵉⵎⵣⵉ .

As part of the Eid Al Adha festivities, each family will slaughter at least one sheep or one lamb as a religious offering. A portion of the meat will be donated to less fortunate families while the other part will be used in the preparation of Couscous with Azlef and Couscous with Emze - ⵢⵉⵎⵣⵉ .

Couscous with Azlef is consumed on the second day of Eid Al Adha and is similar in preparation to the classic Couscous with meat. However, the meat comes from the sacrificed sheep’s head. The sheep’s head is barbecued until charred, and then scrubbed to remove any remaining skin and wool to ensure the meat can be easily accessed.  The cooked head is then chopped in half and cut in small pieces and is ready to be cooked in the couscous stew.  

While preparing the head, a piece of meat from the right cheek will be put aside to be dried and saved for a traditional dish during Ashura, another significant  festivity later in the year.

Couscous with Emze - ⵢⵉⵎⵣⵉ is prepared with the stuffed intestines of the sacrificed animal. The intestines are scrubbed and cleaned thoroughly, then stuffed with a melange made of the internal organs (kidney, liver, heart, …), rice, onions and spices. Once stuffed, the intestines are sewn closed and steamed before being added to the Couscous stew. Couscous with Emze is also sometimes prepared for weddings and other important celebrations.

Once the sheep has been cleaned and its entrails removed, as part of the Eid Al Adha rituals, the barbecued head and legs are placed inside the carcass. A candle and incense are lit beside it, which is then left to rest overnight. This is a ritual for blessing the sacrifice that has been made. 

In the months following Eid Al Adha, At Willul families prepare dried meat with the meat remaining from the Eid Al Adha festivities. Dried meat is made with sheep or beef,cut into long strips, seasoned and hung to dry in the sun. With this, they will prepare a Couscous with Dried Meat, which is considered a delicacy couscous in Zuwara.

This story is part of Azday ‘ⴰⵣⴷⴰⵢ ‘ project, an effort to document the culinary heritage of the At Willul. You can find the recipe of Couscous with Azlef, Emze, dried meat and more stories of Amazigh culinary heritage in the Azday booklet.

Azday project is funded by the British Council’s Cultural Protection Fund, in partnership with theDepartment for Digital, Culture, Media and Sport. The project is conducted in partnership with theAt Wellol Movement.